Located in south-western Turkey, 19km north of Denizli, the ancient city of Hierapolis is situated 200 meters high on a beautiful white cliff made up of limestone deposits along with petrified waterfalls and terraced basins, all overlooking the town of Pamukkale (meaning Cotton Palace).
The Ancient City of Hierapolis
Generally said to have been founded by Eumenes II, King of Pergamum, in the 2nd century BCE, Hierapolis was likely established by the Seleucid kings closer to the 4th century BCE.
It is believed the name ‘Hierapolis’ derives from the mythological figure Hiera, who was the wife of Telephus (son of Hercules and founder of Pergamum). Hierapolis, whose name means “sacred city”, because of the temples located at the site, was believed by ancients to be founded by the god Apollo.
The Temple of Apollo and Plutonium
The Greek foundations of the Temple of Apollo still remain, although the rest is Roman, dated to the 3rd century CE. Similar to Delphi, the temple had an oracle tended by eunuch priests. It was believed in ancient times that the gases emitted from an adjoining spring called the Plutonium (dedicated to Pluto, the god of the underworld) were lethal to all but the priests who had a direct line to Hades. To demonstrate this point the priests would toss in birds and small animals and watch them die.
The Plutonium is sealed off today because it continues to give off toxic vapors.
Hierapolis and the Bible
Recognizing the curative powers of the rich mineral waters of the springs, the Romans built baths along with other monuments, and the spa town continued to flourish under the Byzantines, when it gained a large Jewish community and an early Christian congregation.
Paul mentioned Hierapolis in his Letter to Colossians, and it was reported in the book of Acts that Philip died in the city around 80 CE. This is usually taken to mean Phillip the Apostle, but it is likely the later disciple, Philip the Evangelist. Nonetheless, the remarkable octagonal Martyrium of St. Philip was erected in the 5th century CE, and at its center was found a crypt believing to hold the remains of Philip.
The Hot Springs and Sacred Pool at Hierapolis
The center of the city may have been the original Sacred Pool, which is now the swimming pool in the courtyard of the Antique Pool spa. For a price, tourists can swim in the pool warmed by hot springs, floating above the ancient Roman marble columns from the courtyard toppled by an earthquake.
While the tectonic activity of this area gave rise to the hot springs, the periodic earthquakes frequently brought disaster. As a result the city fell in decline after the 6th century CE and following a major earthquake in the 14th century, the local community finally abandoned the city.
The Roman Theater at Hierapolis
One of the highlights at Hierapolis is a spectacular Roman theater, capable of seating over 12,000 people. The theater was erected in the third century CE, during the reign of Emperor Septimius Severus, enveloping and canceling an earlier theater, perhaps of Flavian date. The theater was used late into Roman times.
Restored by Italian stonecutters in the 1970s, the stage is well-preserved with decorated reliefs and the front row reserved seating for VIPs is still intact.
Other highlights at Hierapolis include: an extraordinary necropolis (cemetery) containing thousands of tombs, a 2nd century agora—one of the largest ever discovered, the arch of the Emperor Domitian, and the ruins of the Roman baths.
The Travertines of Pamukkale
There are two ways to reach the plateau of Hierapolis, both are on foot. There is the northern entrance on tarmac which is around 3km long, and the southern entrance which you must walk 250m barefoot along a calcium path through the travertines of Pamukkale themselves. The later is a magnificent experience, for there is no stranger yet beautiful landscape in all of Turkey, but it is not without its setbacks.
First, if you trek up to Hierapolis during the day (the site is open 24 hours), the sun reflecting off the white limestone is blinding. Make sure to come fully prepared with hat and very dark sunglasses. Secondly, in some areas the calcium may be slippery, while in other spots the tiny ridges of calcium of hard on the feet.
The reason why one is required to go barefoot is in an effort to conserve the site, which has suffered tremendous damage. Unfortunately, the growth in tourism in the 1980s and 1990s led to the building of a line of hotels above the travertines which drained them of their waters. Further damage was done to the lovely terraced pools as a result of tourists bathing and shampooing in them.
The hotels have since been torn down and visitors can no longer bathe in the pools. Both Pamukkale and Hierapolis are now a World Heritage Site.
Sources:
- Lonely Planet Turkey, 10th Edition
- Pamukkale, Turkey.
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